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| A Movie Star We'd Rather Not Meet, from Caddyshack |
Got gophers? If you’re a gardener in the US west of the
Mississippi, you probably just said “Yes,” possibly followed by some expletive.
It’s disheartening to lose the veggies that you’ve worked hard to cultivate at
the hands (or the teeth) of these rascally rodents. For me, the last straw was
the demise of a third lovely old English rose bush planted by a former
resident. But using traditional poisons will also poison into your organic
soil. Rain brings the poisons down into the water table. Poisoning gophers also
poisons their natural predators such as gopher snakes, owls, bobcats, foxes and
coyotes: your friends in gopher control. And of course, poison is unsafe around
children and pets.
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| Barn Owl: Natural Rodent Control |
Luckily, our neighbor Thomas Wittman is an expert at
controlling pest animals without poisons. His website,
GophersLimited.com offers a lot of
information, products, and services regarding all sorts of four-footed pests.
An expert in resolving “animal and human conflicts,” Thomas teaches classes,
one of which my husband and I attended last week. Using some of the many things we
learned plus some additional research, I've put together a few practical ideas for outwitting gophers without
resorting to poisons.
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| Gophers Don't Think They're So Pretty |
1. Gophers eat certain plants less frequently, mostly those
that contain aromatic oils, which they seem to find distasteful. Try growing
these to discourage an invasion. Many of these plants are drought-adapted
California and US Southwest natives, so will also minimize your watering needs.
Most varieties of sages and lavenders, as well as marigolds, geraniums,
dianthus, amaryllis, daffodils, cannas, snapdragons, dahlias and most iris are
on the gopher dislike list. Note that they do like cilantro and tulips very
much.
2. Gophers favor watery plants, since they do not drink
water. Veggies like carrots, beets, parsnips, potatoes, artichokes, asparagus,
and onions are favorites. Rotate the areas in which you grow these crops every
year, if you have the space, to reduce the likelihood that gophers will build a
run (burrow) to these plants.
3. Gophers are attracted to most clovers, especially crimson
clover, which is a popular cover crop. Try substituting sour clover (Melilotus
indica). Sour clover is high in coumarin, the original source of the blood
thinner Coumadin. Gophers avoid ingesting sour clover, possibly because the
coumarin adversely affects their blood chemistry. Sour clover fixes nitrogen,
reseeds easily, and has flowers that attract bees. A lot of plants are called
sour clover, including oxalis, so be sure to get Melilotus indica. Gophers love
oxalis!
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| Surprising Gopher Repellant |
4. Gophers will avoid many strong smells and tastes. Try
fertilizing your plants with fish emulsion. You’ll be fertilizing organically
and discouraging gophers at the same time. I use
E.B. Stone fish emulsion with kelp,
but any sufficiently smelly brand will have the same effect.
5. Try a physical barrier, if none of the previous methods work. Use either
gopher baskets for individual plants, or raised beds with wire mesh bottoms.
Galvanized metal baskets are available, but the galvanizing process is so toxic
that it’s outlawed in the US. More world-friendly alternatives are Nophers’
stainless steel baskets.
They’re more expensive, but unlike galvanized metal baskets they will never
need to be replaced.
For raised beds, be sure to use gopher wire or galvanized
hardware cloth with ¾” (or ½” x 1”) mesh. Larger mesh will allow gophers to
enter. Don’t use aviary wire, which will disintegrate because it’s not designed
to be buried. To ensure gophers won’t climb over the top of raised beds, build
them 2 feet deep.
The weak point of a raised bed, in terms of gopher control,
is where the wire is attached to the edges, particularly at the corners. Run the wire mesh up onto the outside
or inside of the walls, and screw on lattice on top of the mesh for
reinforcement. Yes, this takes a bit of finesse, but it will prevent a gopher
from clawing through and eating up the fruits of your hard labor.
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| Max Contemplates a Gopher Hunt |
6. Feline-loving readers have doubtlessly noted that some
cats hunt and eat gophers. According to experts, tabbies, especially orange or
gray ones, are the best candidates. Oddly enough, a well-fed domesticated cat
is a better hunter than a (non-feral) cat who is allowed to go hungry. Cats
given a small amount of food will tend to see humans as their food source,
rather than feeling robust enough to catch dinner on the hoof (or claw as it
were). Both Thomas and I have proven this with cats “inherited” from others in
homes we’ve moved into. We turned our inherited cats from hungry homebodies to
hunters by feeding them healthfully. Most dogs don’t hunt gophers, though
they’ll dig big holes trying. However, Australian shepherds can be quite good
at it.
7. Barn owls anyone? An owl family can eat up to 1000
gophers per season. You can encourage them to nest by installing an owl box.
The
Hungry Owl Project
is a nonprofit that sells the boxes (made in a high school) and DIY owl box
plans. It’s critical that the box opening be no more than 5”, so that the barn
owl’s major predator, the great horned owl, cannot prey on the chicks. Avoid
using a perch for the same reason.
8. Some readers have thought of this already, I'm sure.
Shooting gophers can be effective and satisfying. It works well for
marksmen/women with farms or vineyards, but not so well in most neighborhoods
where most of us live quite happily without guns.
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| Repels Many Types of Garden-Disturbers |
9. Pepper spray. It’s come to that. I’m don’t mean standing
at the gopher hole at dawn aiming your canister. There’s a product called
Critter
Ridder that’s made of concentrated red and black pepper oils, available as
granules or spray. Both its smell and taste discourage most animals, including
gophers, squirrels, skunks, raccoons and even dogs. Do use all the precautions
specified on the label: safety glasses, long sleeves, long pants, close toed
shoes, washing hands afterwards. It’s strong stuff, ya’all. My first use will
be the area where a wily free-roaming beagle likes to poop (right in front of
my tomato plants, eeeeewww!). Be forewarned, dog!
10. Traps can
work if all else fails. You must act quickly when you first see evidence of
gophers, as they move rapidly from one planted area to the next. After trying
every sort of trap you can imagine, Thomas recommends above-ground deploying of
cinch
traps. Lethal traps are never pretty, but the Humane Society recommends
these because the animal dies instantly. They operate such that you don’t have
to handle the animal to remove it from the trap. Unless you suspect a family of
gophers in your yard, Thomas recommends burying the gopher where s/he was
trapped to deter other gophers, while adding nutrients to the soil.
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| Genuine US-made Cinch Trap |
Be sure to buy genuine
cinch traps from Cinch, a USA company. Cheaper imported models will not
work at best, and will maim the animal at worst.
Cinch traps must be placed in a whole active burrow,
basically a plugged hole in the
ground where you can see recent soil disturbance. Thomas has a number of
trap-setting videos
to guide you through this process. Use gloves while setting the trap per
the instructions. Gophers are nocturnal, and most apt to be trapped in early
morning or late afternoon. Check your traps accordingly.
11. Gopher
Goo! If you’d rather not deal with traps and carcasses, and don’t mind
spending some extra money, there is a product that will fill the gopher holes
without compromising the environment.
Gopher Goo is a
starch-based polymer that actually benefits clay soils by making them more
porous and better at retaining water. Mix the granules with water and pour the
mixture down the gopher hole. It will expand and plug the gopher run, holding
moisture next to the plants that the gophers had been eating.
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| Accept No Substitutes |
Don’t confuse this product with other products that an
internet search for
Gopher Goo
will pull up. Although these products might be cheaper, they contain
polyacrylamides. Though polyacrylamides are technically nontoxic (and are
advertised as such), they readily break down into acrylamide, a powerful
neurotoxin and something you don’t want in your garden or groundwater.
12. If you're putting in a new lawn, here’s a tip from
Gophers Limited. Make sure your contractor puts down the optimum size layer of
dirt between the gopher-busting wire mesh and the sod. Too little soil (the
most common mistake) means gophers can pull the sod down between the mesh and
destroy the lawn. Too much soil means that gophers and moles can live between
sod and wire and destroy the lawn. Optimum amount of soil is 1½ - 2 inches. Not
all contactors are experts in this area, so do discuss these details.
Gopher control isn’t much fun, but a
gopher-free garden and yard can be satisfying. I hope that these suggestions
will help you to craft an ideal solution if gophers are a problem at your
house.
Put clumping cat litter (used) and/ or cat or dog poo down the hole and flush with water. They will leave. This has worked for me for over 20 years. I used to just use to dog poo, but one huge and determined gopher made me re-think this and use the cat box waste. It only took one time using the kitty litter & poo and he was gone.
ReplyDeleteThanks for the comment about the poo. You are right that gophers are quite fastidious and only relieve themselves in special dug-out chambers well below the levels of their dens and their runs. I don't have furry pets (don't think goldfish poo would do much), but am sure that pet owners will appreciate this tip!
ReplyDeleteHow about mentioning MoleMax? I have found this product to be excellent. Castor oil is the base and the product is environmentally safe for the children, pets and soil. I use the granules. The trick is to not over-apply the product. I do this about twice a year.
ReplyDeleteThanks, I didn't know that MoleMax works for gophers. Our Gophers Unlimited guy did recommend it for moles.
ReplyDelete